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1 Bald Hills

3 Cavell Meadows

4 km (2.5 mi) one way. 370 m (1,215 ft). Maximum elevation: 2,135 m (7,000 ft). Trailhead: Mt. Edith Cavell. Gem Trek Map: Jasper-Maligne Lake at 1:100 000.

This moderate half-day hike leads past boulders where marmots frolic to glorious sub-alpine meadows ablaze with wildflowers in late July and early August. From the summit you get close-up views of Angel Glacier and Mt. Edith Cavell and, if you're lucky, you might catch sight of an avalanche of snow and ice thundering down the side of the mountain. This is a late-season hike, as snow patches generally linger on the trail into July. On the way down, be sure to take in the short Path of the Glacier Trail which loops through barren, recently-glaciated landscape.

4 Wilcox Pass

4 km (2.5 mi) to the pass summit. 330 m (1,082 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 2,375 m (7,790 ft). Trailhead: Wilcox Creek Campground, 2 km (1.2 mi) east of the Columbia Icefield Centre. Gem Trek Map: Columbia Icefield at 1:50 000

Within 30 minutes of the Icefields Parkway, you can be taking a high-alpine walk through a huge valley with fabulous views of Snow Dome and Mt. Athabasca, with the Athabasca Glacier spilling down into the valley. Bighorn sheep, white-tailed ptarmigan and golden eagle are often spotted in this area. Instead of retracing your steps back to the trailhead from the pass, you can meander along to the end of the valley and down to Tangle Falls. Your total distance this way is 11 km (7 mi), and you'll have to hitchhike back on the Icefield Parkway to your car.

6 Emerald Triangle and Burgess Highline

21 km loop (13 mi). 880 m (2,885 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 2,190 m (7,180 ft). Trailhead: Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park. Gem Trek Map: Lake Louise & Yoho at 1: 50 000.

Strong hikers will enjoy this full-day hike which offers lots of scenic variety. The first section leads alongside Emerald Lake, one of the most gorgeous lakes in the Rockies. After a climb up open slopes to Yoho Pass, the Burgess Highline trail leads south along a ridge. This stretch is the highlight of the triangle, featuring grand views down to Emerald Lake and across to the Vice President. You also have an excellent chance of spotting mountain goats.

7 The Iceline

13.8 km (8.5 mi) returning the Celeste Lake Connector. 695 m (2,280 ft). Maximum elevation: 2,195 m (7,200 ft). Trailhead: Whiskey Jack Hostel in Yoho Valley. Gem Trek Map: Lake Louise & Yoho at 1:50 000.

This trail was only created in 1987, but is already one of the most popular trails in the park because of its dramatic scenery. Not only is it the highest trail in Yoho Valley, but it also features a close-up look at a barren landscape covered by glaciers only 100 years ago. The rough, rocky trail leads up and down moraine rubble with spectacular views of Emerald and Daly Glaciers. This trail is best done in fair weather, but be prepared for snow patches any month of the year.

8 Lake Agnes and Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse

13 km loop (8 mi). 700 m (2,300 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 2,250 m (7,380 ft). Trailhead: At the Chateau Lake Louise. Gem Trek Map: Lake Louise & Yoho at 1:50 000.

This classic Canadian Rockies hike takes in two rustic mountain teahouses, where you can munch hearty sandwiches and home-baked banana bread, and enjoy a steaming cup of tea or hot chocolate. Memorable views along the way include the snowy peaks of the Great Divide from Little Beehive, Lake Louise and the Chateau from Lake Agnes teahouse and Big Beehive, and a stunning view of six glaciers from near Plain of the Six Glaciers teahouse.

9 Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass

5.8 km (3.6 km) to Sentinel Pass. 370 m (1,210 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 2,600 m (8,530 ft). Trailhead: Moraine Lake. Gem Trek Map: Lake Louise & Yoho at 1:50 000.

For outstanding scenery, there is no better dayhike in the Canadian Rockies. After a moderate climb you arrive in Valley of the Ten Peaks. This is what you hope heaven will be like - soaring peaks, flower-filled meadows, birds twittering, and two glistening lakes. An almost-vertical trail zigzags up to Sentinel Pass, highest point reached by a major trail in the Canadian Rockies. From here you look into Paradise Valley where weird spires of rocks rise like Sentinels.

11 Kindersley Pass and Sinclair Creek

16 km circuit (10 mi). 1,050 m (3,445 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 2,400 m (7,872 ft). Trailhead: 9.5 km (6 mi) north of Kootenay National Park West Gate at Radium. Gem Trek Map: Kootenay National Park at 1: 100 000.

Strong hikers will enjoy the spectacular scenery on this classic alpine ramble along a ridge featuring grand views of various mountain ranges - a veritable sea of peaks. Since you'll be exiting at a different spot than where you started, do plan for the 1 kilometre (0.6 mi) walk or hitch back to the trailhead.

12 Stanley Glacier

4.2 km (2.6 mi) one way. 350 m (1,150 ft) elevation gain. Maximum elevation: 1,930 m (6,330 ft). Trailhead: Highway 93 South toward Radium, 12 km south of Castle Mountain Junction (Highway 1). Gem Trek Map: Kootenay National Park at 1: 100 000, or Banff & Mt. Assiniboine at 1: 100 000.

This trail takes you through a fascinating area that was razed by fire in 1968 and is now a regenerating forest. Below the charred trees a profusion of wildflowers bloom throughout July. The trail peters out at a viewpoint of Stanley Glacier where you can listen to the boom of avalanches and the shrill cry of marmots and pikas who make their home in boulders in the meadow.

Jasper Bed and Breakfasts

If you'd rather not pay sky-high summer season prices for accommodation in Jasper, you might want to consider lodging in a private home.

There are about 65 of these "Approved Accommodation" establishments licensed in Jasper, and they're similar to a Bed and Breakfast with one important difference: breakfast is not available. (Parks Canada doesn't license them for serving food.)

Another minor difference is that you generally have less contact with your host than you would in a typical B and B. In many cases, you'll be using a private entrance, and the only time you meet your host is when you arrive and pick up the key.

The homes vary in the number of suites they offer as well as amenities: single, double or queen beds, private or shared bath, sitting area, kitchen or patio available, whether they accept Visa and Mastercard or not, etc.

Prices vary, too, from $40 a night for a double to $70 or more. This is a savings of at least 50 per cent on what you'd pay for a hotel in high season.

Reservations are highly recommended during the summer. You book directly with the private home itself. For a brochure listing the amenities and phone numbers of each, write P.O. Box 758, Jasper, Alberta, Canada T0L 1E0.